Skip to content 
A former Michelin-starred chef has reopened a popular chippy as part of his Salt and Malt restaurant and takeaway chain
Few foods are as quintessentially British as fish and chips. From seaside holidays to Friday night takeaways, the humble dish has become a much-loved part of life in Britain.
But the classic pairing of crispy battered fish and golden chips is actually more than a century old. Fried fish and potatoes were eaten separately before the two were combined in the late 19th century.
It didn’t take long for fish and chips to become synonymous with a day at sea. Here’s Reach reporter Mark David Taylor to visit an iconic coast for a day trip and sample some fish and chips.
Former Michelin-star chef Josh Eggleton has taken over the much-loved coastal chippy after more than 20 years in business, transforming it into one of his Salt & Malt restaurants and takeaway outlets within weeks.
And it seems to have struck a chord with people – at 6pm on the glorious summer Saturday of Mark’s visit, there was already a queue for tables at the Weston-super-Mare restaurant, with an even longer one snaking outside for takeaways.
With a blue-tiled frontage, black and white ‘checkerboard’ floor tiles and ribbed glass partitions between booths, this shiny new salt and malt bears a striking resemblance to existing branches, giving the impression that Eggleton is looking at further seaside locations. And rightly so, as this exclusive fish and chip concept is absolutely crying out for further expansion, reports Wales Online.
With sustainably sourced North Atlantic fish, gluten-free chips and daily specials – on this occasion, Cornish Mounts Bay sardines with roasted sourdough, salad and pickles – it’s undeniably a ‘posh’ chippy, but Eggleton’s is conscious of not pricing out everyday coastal visitors.
Takeaway prices remain reasonably competitive with most seafront chippies – small cod and chips is £12.50, battered sausages are £2.40 and children’s meals are £7, chips in a cone at £2 and a large chip box for £5.60.
Inside the restaurant, prices are of course higher, with battered shield and chips with melted crushed garden beans coming in at £19, and a homemade fishcake with cod, haddock, lemon, dill and parsley for £14.50.
The children’s menu (for 16 and under) in the restaurant is a reasonable £7.50, and offers battered fish, sausages, chicken pieces, scampi and halloumi, all served with chips and a choice of peas, baked beans, carrots or cucumbers.
However, it’s the inventive touches and alternatives that set Salt and Malt apart from your typical seaside chippy.
As well as gluten-free batter as standard, diners can opt to bake their cod or halibut in garlic butter instead of batter – perhaps the healthier choice for those looking for a ‘beach body’ this summer.
For those less concerned about such matters, free chip refills are also offered, although the portions are hearty enough that you won’t need them.
Mark and his plus tried the cod and chips (£18) and the curried cod burger (£16.50) and neither disappointed. The cod was wrapped in crispy, golden batter, with large, moist and succulent fish flakes inside, accompanied by a generous portion of buttery crushed peas.
Granted, £18 is above average for fish and chips, but this was a great rendition of the great British seafood staple and well worth it every penny. Nestled in a soft brioche bun, the curried cod burger has a generous portion of lightly battered fish with a subtle curry sauce flavor, accompanied by tartar sauce, coleslaw and pickled red cabbage.
The chips were perfectly cooked – crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside and completely fat free.
In essence, the dish brought together all the finest elements of a traditional seafood chippy – fish and chips, a bread roll, curry sauce and classic burger toppings – and the combination was nothing short of brilliant. If they could be summed up in just two words, they would be “top drawer”.
Traditional chippy favorites paired with stunning coastal views – what more could anyone ask for?
