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With so many anti-aging creams promising smoother, firmer, more youthful-looking skin, it can be hard to know which ingredients are actually worth looking out for and which are nothing more than clever marketing.
There’s everything from retinol and peptides to antioxidants and hydrating serums, all promising to keep skin looking young. So, to separate the science from the hype, I spoke with skin care experts Dr. Brandon Richland, a board-certified plastic surgeon and Allyse Cirillo, founder and CEO of SAINT JŌ.
I wanted to find out the key ingredients that REALLY support healthier looking skin. Whether you’re looking to soften the appearance of fine lines, improve elasticity or simply give your complexion a boost, these are the ingredients you should know before adding another cream to your routine.
Read more: The best moisturizers for aging skin
What are the most effective ingredients to look for in an anti-aging cream?
“A short list does most of the heavy lifting,” says Dr. Richland. “Retinoids (retinol over the counter, or prescription tretinoin) are the workhorses. They speed up cell turnover and prompt your skin to build its own collagen, which is what softens fine lines and evens tone over time,” he adds.
When choosing an anti-aging cream, it’s not necessarily about finding a “miracle” ingredient, but rather a formula where the ingredients work together to support the skin, Cirillo agrees.
Dr. Richland says, “Vitamin C is your morning antioxidant. It scavenges the free radicals from the sun and pollution before they do their damage, and it lends a hand with collagen while it’s at it. Niacinamide is the silent narrator, strengthening the skin barrier and calming the redness and blemishes that many people write off as just their complexion.
He also recommends peptides, which signal the skin to produce more collagen and are often gentler than retinoids. He adds that hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides help support the skin’s barrier, while daily SPF remains one of the most effective ways to protect skin over time.
Read more: Best hyaluronic acid serum, reviewed
Which anti-aging ingredients have the strongest scientific evidence to reduce visible signs of aging?
When it comes to the ingredients with the strongest scientific support for reducing visible signs of aging, Dr. Richland and Cirillo say that retinoids remain the benchmark, thanks to the long history of research in dermatology.
“They have decades of peer-reviewed research behind them, and the collagen increase is measurable on an actual skin biopsy, not just in a flattering before-and-after under good lighting,” noted Dr. Richland.
“Vitamin C, niacinamide, and the alpha-hydroxy acids form a solid second tier of well-supported actives,” he adds.
Both experts also stress that no anti-aging ingredient beats daily SPF to prevent visible aging caused by sunlight.
Read more: Best sunscreen for face
Are all anti-aging ingredients overhyped?
Cirillo warns that some products that promise dramatic before-and-after results sometimes rely on approaches that “strip or inflame the skin,” which over time may do more harm than good.
She also advises being wary of “hero ingredient” claims, as well as high-strength acids or retinoids that are used without sufficient barrier support. “Effective in the right context, overused in the wrong,” she says. Cirillo adds that terms like “clean” should also be treated with caution, as they have no legal definition and should not be relied upon solely for skin care choices.
Topical collagen is one Dr. Richland is careful about, explaining that collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin. Instead, they simply moisturize the surface instead of stimulating your skin’s collagen production, reaping the benefits of ingredients like retinoids and peptides instead.
At what age should you start using anti-aging creams?
While Dr. Richland reassures that there is no panic birthday that will change everything overnight in terms of skin care, you should start anti-aging creams sooner than you think, adding that prevention is always cheaper and easier than correction.
“Sunscreen should really start in childhood. A simple antioxidant and SPF routine makes good sense when you’re in your twenties. And most people do introduce a retinoid somewhere in their late twenties or thirties,” he explains. “The mindset that will serve you best is to protect and maintain the skin you have, rather than ignoring it for decades and then trying to stop when the wrinkles arrive.”
The best anti-aging products
Facetheory Glow-C Daily Moisturizer, SPF30
If you’re looking for a budget anti-aging cream, this Facetheory Moisturizer is a great choice. Beauty journalist Sabine Wiesel wrote: “This is a relatively wallet-friendly product that’s also a true multitasker, protecting and correcting the signs of aging like an antioxidant serum, moisturizer and sunscreen all in one. Its mousse-like whipped texture sinks right into the skin, leaving it feeling comfortably hydrated.”
Read the full Facetheory Glow-C Daily Moisturizer Review
Why we love it
- A multi-tasking antioxidant serum, moisturizer and SPF in one
- Powerhouse active at a fraction of the price
- Bright and even skin tone
Attention
- Citrus scented, but also comes unscented
- A little stickiness upon application
Clarins Double Serum
The Clarins Double Serum takes the top spot in our guide to the best anti-aging serums. After testing it, beauty journalist Sabine Wiesel wrote that it left her skin “incredibly soft” and looking “smooth and glowing”, and her “pores seemed less noticeable”.
Why we love it
- Do-it-all serum
- Boots shine and hydration
- Softens the look of lines and pores
Attention
- There is also a light texture version available, which may be more suitable for oily and combination skin types
- It’s not cheap but the results are worth it
Estee Lauder advanced night repair synchronized multi-recovery complex
Another recommendation from Sabine Wiesel in her anti-aging serum guide, she wrote: “I have gone through countless bottles because I know that the next day my skin already feels better hydrated. Estee Lauder was one of the first brands to use hyaluronic acid in their formulations, and they combined it with squalane to improve the skin’s essential moisture boost and peptides. Strength that really makes the skin younger with continued use. It is a classic from a Reason.
Why we love it
- Multipurpose serum targets lines, skin tone, firmness
- Cult classic beauty product
- Suitable for all skin types – even sensitive
Attention
- Looking to pay less try No 7’s Night Serum below for similar results
Meet the expert
- Dr. Brandon Richland: Board-certified plastic surgeon
- Allyse Cirillo: Founder and CEO of SAINT JŌ
Read more: Dermatologists agree that this is the best anti-aging skin care routine
